Cloths for guys

Today, most dancers just wear normal, comfortable, street clothing, but if you really want to spice it up, read on the article below written by my friend Johnny Straight-Up from Montreal, Canada.

by Johnny Straight-Up

Let's face it, fellas - clothes make the man. This is more true today in the neo-swing nineties than ever. You've taken some lessons, practiced in the kitchen, and are heading out to a local swing nite - so why ruin all your groundwork with jeans and a T-shirt? I know it's comfy, but swing is about style above all else. While the GAP ad may have been the impetus for your interest in swing, it should certainly not be taken as a cue for your attire.

Here's a few basics to get you lookin' like a swinger. Take heed - it is my firm belief that a mediocre dancer can move up a few notches with the right get-up. The opposite is also true - nothing sadder than a dancer who really knows their stuff but looks like they just got off work at the depanneur.

Let's start at the top:

THE HAT:
Fedoras are ok - derbys are not.
Soft-brimmed newsboy hats are ok - anything knit is not.

Before you go donnin' yer noggin', ask yourself - Do I look good in a hat? Some guys just don't. Some guys just need to find the right style. If you're still unsure, ask the opinion of someone who won't lie to you.

A hat definitely has a time and a place to be worn. If you're going to be lurking in the corners of the club all night, a hat will give you the proper air of coolness to do it. It can also make you look like you're with the band, which may not translate into dance action. You might be ok with this because......

You don't wear a hat on the dance floor!

Even the most experienced dancer risks losing their headgear, only to have it trampled by marauding Lindy Hoppers. Check it with your coat or leave it at the table.

THE SHIRT:
You've got a lot of options these days. You'll find loud colours available almost anywhere, but contemporary cuts are often too generous in the shoulders and torso, which, if you're not built to fill them out, tend to bag, bunch, and look sloppy very quickly.

Vintage shirts offer some colours not seen on the shelves for decades, and will often feature french cuffs to boot. The downside is that older styles were shorter in the body with fewer buttons. Why? Pants had higher waistlines. This means that you might find yourself continually re-tucking your shirt, or giving up on it entirely, quickly transforming into a swing slob.

Solutions:

1. Wear a high-waisted pant
2. Wear suspenders
3. Wear a vest
4. Wear a jacket
5. Wear a bowling shirt which should never be tucked in the first place.

THE TIE:
Some of your greatest freedom for expression lies in the necktie. Vintage is a must and I suggest you start collecting now; the good ones are getting harder and harder to find. If you're paying more than $25-$30 for a tie(on the Montreal market), it had better be outstanding and in excellent condition.

The golden age of necktie fashion was from the 1940's to late 50's. Anything under 3" at the widest point is borderline; anything wider than 5" is probably from the 70's. Look for large single graphics as opposed to an overall pattern. Ties in the 40's were also worn high by contemporary standards. Don't worry, it's ok if your tie doesn't touch your belt. However, if you're long-waisted and not wearing a high-cut pant, stretch your tie potential by using a half-Windsor knot instead of a full. If you don't know what I'm talking about - ask your mom.

THE PANTS
Ok - I really mean pants-jacket-vest. These cover the greatest surface area, and go the farthest in determining your look.

The Zoot Suit - impossible to find. Get a tailor. Also, if you're going for this look, you'd better have the moves to go with it. A word of caution here - I've seen some guys around looking like rejects from the Dick Tracy casting call. This sort of comic book costume works on the stage or screen, but can be dicey on the dance floor

Sharkskin - also hard to find, but not impossible. The shoulders have a fairly wide cut, and you can find single and double breasted. Go for the classic steel-blue shimmer.

Mod - mid 60's suits feature a great straight-cut leg and the fabric covered 3-button front is trademark. The shoulders are narrower and the body is more of a box-cut, but skinny guys can really pull it off. The big plus - copper, gold, bronze, baby blue, navy - all with a happenin' metallic sheen.

Lots of cats are out there with the two and three pleat pants that are classic swing attire. Chicken legs get lost in them, though - your fancy footwork will become a flurry of fabric.

Whatever your look, you're gonna sweat. We're talking about a lot of wool and/or polyester. This is the price we must pay. Keep that jacket buttoned, too - you'll get the flaps in your partner's face otherwise. Your only option for easier breathing is a vest-no-jacket, shirt-tie-suspenders, or the aforementioned bowling shirt which should be worn with cotton pants. And speaking of sweat - white or pale cotton pants can lead to embarrassing sweat marks. I've seen it and it aint pretty.

THE SHOES:
Two-tone - what else?? Check out Betty's links on the Clothes for Cat's page. If you can't find them, more basic wing-tips are always in style. A pointed toe is de rigeur for pleated pants, but looks weird with straight-cut. Go for a square or rounded toe.

I've nothing against contemporary footwear on the dance floor. Use your judgement or ask that same friend who gave you the hat low-down, but for god's sake - no running shoes!

You're set for swingin' now. Don't be scared to mix things up. This is, after all, a NEO-swing revival. That in itself allows you to pull from different decades to come up with your own look. I've worn 60's pants and shirt, 40's tie, and a 70's jacket with great results. Just keep that honest friend handy.

Last, but not least, always leave enough time for a sophisticated cocktail or two before hitting the club. Be sure and check out my cocktail of the week.

For more on the stylin' 40's-50's man, check out "Hats Off To That 1940s Man!" from Retro magazine, or Swank Daddy's take on men's threads.

Happy swinging! Chin-chin.
Johnny